Sunday, March 13, 2005

Passing some time at John Harvard's

It's was a dark and stormy saturday morning. Snow? Rain? Yes, to both.

After having a particularly unfruitful negotiation with an auto mechanic which left me considering various ways I might do him harm in such a way he would know who had done it, but I would be free of legal trouble, I decided to drown my sorrows in a haircut.

These days, I'm going to LaFlamme's barbershop, in Harvard Square, Cambridge, Boston, Massachusetts. Yes, Cambridge is part of Boston. So is Brookline, Charlestown, Allston, Brighton and pretty much any place else you can go via subway. (Um, except Quincy... and Newton.) Get over it.

Another fine haircut complete, I considered my options. Soon there would be grocery shopping. But just next door, there was a brewpub.

John Harvard's Brewhouse
Dunster Street, Harvard Sq, Cambridge

On the way to the bar, I noticed a seasonal beer on the blackboard... XO Ale. Sounded promising, so I went ahead and ordered one without bothering to check the beer list for a description.

Served up in a 14oz goblet, this beer is a deep brown-black, with a rocky, brown head. The aroma is clean, sweet berries.

The berry notes persist in the mouth, into the finish. Creamy texture, slightly sweet, not syrupy. Minimal hop flavor or aroma. A little bit of malty spice, and just a bit of hop bitterness in the finish, especially after the first couple sips.

Stylistically, I am inclined to point this towards a belgian brown or double, or an english strong ale, but it's not spot on in either category. Too much roast flavor and hop bitterness for a belgian, and the yeast is wrong. Likewise, too much roasty flavor for an english brown or strong, and not enough alcohol for a strong. The spice is out of character as well. And of course, those berries.

Ah, the beer list has arrived.

"XO Ale... A full-bodied dark ale with an intense raspberry aroma and flavor, balanced by mellow chocolate tones... 6% ABV."

Although the beer list includes the grain bill and hops for each beer, it doesn't say whether raspberries (or syrup, or flavor) or spices have been added. I would guess yes to both.

I must confess, this really isn't my sort of beer, but it's pretty good for what it is. Maybe with dessert. When I read XO I was expecting an english strong ale.

I decided to cleanse my palate with a pint of Brimstone Red, described by the beer list thus: "This red ale is dry with an assertive hop character. A restrained caramel malt presence is underlying a fruity, unique aroma from a carefully selected blend of hops."

The bartender paused, and suggested something else: Demon Double Pale Ale. The bartender described this as "the best beer they had ever made." How could I say no?

Deep copper-amber in color, pale frothy head, served up in a pint glass, an inviting brew.

Described as the Pale, only more so... and 8% ABV.

Here's what the beer list had to say about John Harvard's Pale Ale: "Pale ales are copper colored and hoppy; ours has a fruity aroma from the addition of Cascade hops."

Very light aroma of sweet malt and hops. Chocolate and hops in the mouth, creamy... Alcohol is there, but not in front. A satisfying hop bitterness in the finish. The hop profile reminds me of beers from the Pacific Northwest. Centennial and chinook hops? One of the brewers says it's just cascade. I guess I believe him. The texture is thick and creamy, but stops short of syrupy or clingy. Well done there.

I'm told this only comes on once a year. Too bad - this is good beer.

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